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The frico edge, explained

What is the caramelised cheese crust on a Detroit-style pizza, and how do we get it right?

A row of Dough Club slices seen from the side, each with a dark caramelised cheese edge

You’ve eaten it. You might not have known what to call it.

The frico edge is the crisp, brittle, caramelised cheese crust that lines the walls of a proper Detroit-style pizza. It’s the reason the corner piece is the most-fought-over slice in pizza. It’s the reason people photograph the side of the pan, not just the top.

Why it happens

When you press cheese right up against the hot metal wall of a blue-steel pan and bake it at pizza temperatures, the fats render and the milk proteins brown, the same chemistry that makes a perfectly seared steak taste like more than beef. The cheese doesn’t melt away. It locks into a golden, paper-thin crust.

Detroit-style needs a cheese with the right moisture and fat profile for this to work. In Detroit that has traditionally meant Wisconsin brick. We use a mozzarella and cheddar blend, which browns the same way. Normal mozzarella alone will try but never quite get there.

Why it matters

The frico is how you know a pizza was built in the style, not just rectangular for convenience. It’s a structural signal. The crunch-then-give of the edge, against the fluffy crumb of the inside: that’s the whole experience of Detroit-style in one bite.

We’ll admit it: if a pizza doesn’t have frico, we’re not interested.

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